When it comes to luxurious, beautifully crafted, cultured pearls, famed Tahitian pearl producer Robert Wan is a global market leader. Ever since he launched his eponymous brand in the ‘70s, he has maintained his status via pearl farming off the coast of idyllic, far-flung islands in French Polynesia. Robert Wan Middle East is now extending its production to the region and playing a defining role in the Qatari government’s initiative of reviving its underwater world. From the 10th century until the 1930s, the pearl industry was one of the main sources of revenue for the country and to this date, its natural resources remain just as rich.
Style.com/Arabia speaks to Robert Wan’s CEO and creative director Audrey Tcherkoff to find out more about the ambitious project that aims to re-establish the Qatari pearl “as a vector of identity and economic development for the country.”
NATALIE THEODOSI: One of your aims as CEO and creative director of Robert Wan Middle East is to work towards reviving the region’s pearl heritage. Tell us about your initiative with the Qatari government.
AUDREY TCHERKOFF: That’s the project I’m most proud of; it began seven years ago, when we were approached by the Qatari government to work together to revive the pearl industry. Since pearl hunting stopped in the ‘30s, following the discovery of oil, the pearls remained untouched. We had no idea what to expect and whether or not the pollution had caused damage over the years—that’s the beauty and the challenge of a gem that’s entirely produced by a living organism. However, the Tahitian divers we brought over were shocked at the quantity of pearls they found; and as a result, we created the Qatar Pearl Legacy farm to continue these efforts.
How does the Qatar Pearl Legacy farm operate?
We opened this pearl farm two years ago on Qatar’s northern coast and it now boasts a team of 35 technicians who live on the farm and are dedicated to the project and the activities surrounding it, such as collecting oysters, shell cleaning, grafting, and pearl harvesting.
As the project develops further, what do you eventually hope to achieve?
The strategic objective is to revive and share the part of the national identity that is connected to a love and passion for pearls. We want to showcase Qatar’s pearl heritage and highlight how Qataris traditionally operated via cultural and educational programs.
What are some of the most fascinating facts that illustrate this rich heritage?
The pearl is deeply rooted in the history of the country; even its peninsular-like shape reminds of a teardrop embodying the reflection of the pearl. More importantly, each Qatari is connected to an ancestor who lived off the fishing and pearl trade and that inspires us to tell the story.
What are some of the key facts involved in producing high-quality cultured pearls?
As a brand, we underpin our production with the highest standards to ensure the best luster and shape for our gems. Pearls are rejected at sea from the very first stage, unless they’re top quality. Bigger, more expensive pearls take up to seven or eight years to grow under the sea, which requires an enormous investment in terms of time and care. Just like a baby, we have to clean and feed it and make sure that it is growing under the best conditions. Also, we are very adamant about not using any chemicals or artificial colors; the tiniest trace of pollution can destroy an entire harvest, so protecting the environment is at the core of our values. Robert Wan always says that nature has been so good to him, [so] we have to be good to nature in return.
How are you planning to expand the commercial market to men?
People in the Middle East have a soft spot for pearls and are adamant to learn more about them as it is a part of their heritage. The clientele is very diverse and it is by no means limited to a female audience; because we offer a variety of dark pearls on cotton strings, we also attract men. A young man once visited the bar to buy a pearl for his girlfriend and along with six of his friends, they all ended up buying bracelets for themselves, too. There’s a lack of jewelry in the men’s market and we can fill that gap.
—Natalie Theodosi
