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Giorgio Armani Fall 2024 Menswear: Everything You Missed

Read the complete review on the Giorgio Armani Fall 2024 menswear show, which was presented in Milan, and catch a glimpse of the collection.

When I was a youngster, the apocryphal tale used to go that during his shows Mr. Armani would observe his audience from backstage, his eyes alive to any seat-slumpers, phone-scrollers, or—God help them—ostentatious yawners. Today one of the evergreen designer’s piercing blue eyes really was fixed, unblinking, on the audience from the first look to the 81st. This show began with a film of Mr. Armani going to the front door of his house (which we were in) and peering through a spyhole. That eye gleamed on a projection from the back of the runway as we saw a collection that was entitled The Look.

Mr. Armani IRL came out immediately afterwards to be photographed with the cast and answer questions. He instantly spotted that someone had left an invitation on his polished basement runway floor. It didn’t stay dropped for long. When quizzed about the show we’d just seen, he showed that his vision has a wider, more expansive aperture, too. “I don’t have an especially precise message,” he said. “It’s variations on a theme. I don’t think men’s fashion needs to be changed every season… I believe it must not be an upheaval; the secret is to do the usual, in an unusual way.”

So what was unusual today? It’s hard to answer exactly. The excellent Neve ski wear and snowboard section that bisected the more day and and more evening looks in the run was perhaps longer than expected. Maybe Armani was gearing up for the Milan Cortina Olympic games which will be starting just 24 months from now. This show’s opening ceremony focused on variations of Armani’s original eureka suit, long of skirt and wide of leg, in what looked like shaved terry or herringbone or jacquard birdseye or black velvet; some of the shapes in the fabrics were like a macro Gio Ponti interior. The defining contours of the jackets shifted from Western tradition to Eastern, depending on the cut of the collar and height of the closure. The proportions were gorgeous. The occasional pop of color in knitwear kept your attention. For all this suiting, there was an unusual absence of shirts. No ties here.

Post Neve, Mr. Armani delivered curveballs. The lynx print velvet three-piece suit—still no shirt, but a cravat—was more riotously ornamental than you expect. Its follow-up blouson in look 66 would not have looked out of place on an Hedi Slimane runway, had it not been so realistically cut. Revere-less suits and a suite of eight evening wear looks followed, before Mr. Armani himself. As you walk into this showspace there is also a tangible whiff of ionized air from what must be Mr. Armani’s pool and sauna close by. Today that was especially apt for a show that hit you as both refreshing and deeply relaxing: this was the usual, unusually—and Armani’s second excellent outing of the week.

A glimpse at the Giorgio Armani Fall 2024 menswear collection

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

giorgio-armani

Photo: Gorunway.com

Photo: Gorunway.com

Photo: Gorunway.com

Photo: Gorunway.com

Originally published in Vogue.com

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