“I hope it doesn’t rain,” remarked one showgoer. And for good reason. The Hermès Spring 2020 Menswear show was to roll out in the expansive square at the Mobilier National. For the occasion, actual seats from the archives were curated for guests to sit on. Whether you sat on plush velvet or a metal chaise was luck of the draw. Happily, there was no downpour and an ethnically diverse lineup of models duly made its way around the square in clothing that evoked casual elegance with an arty twist.
Designer Véronique Nichanian must be feeling in the pink because the bubblegum hue was a forte this season. A pink jacket was a standout not just for its color but its construction. Utilitarian, it came with zips, pockets, and a large, upturned collar that gave all the attitude of a certain Pink Ladies crew (Yes, attitude can be loaned from the girls!). Meanwhile a drawstring accent was featured periodically in the collection. It seemed to say, feel comfortable–the trousers especially came with extra leg room–but don’t slouch; this is Hermès after all.
Along with the coats in rubberized lambskin with waxed edges (no one does details like this House), Nichanian also offered streetwear options. Sweatshirts and jogging trousers featured alongside oversized pullovers and cardigans in cotton and cashmere. The latter reminded fondly of the age of empathy, the Mr Rogers days, if you will.
Where Nianchian put her foot on the gas to convey her Spring 2020 man’s sense of “happy freedom, confidence, and lightness,” was in the last looks. Silk shirts featuring bold Hermès landscapes had everyone checking if their imminent takeoff for Mykonos could come sooner. Many of the pieces are modular, such as the blousons with detachable collars and jackets in reversible check. This is a man not constrained by his wardrobe, rather he relies on it to keep moving, like him, through the day from sunup to sundown. Just don’t expect him in the boardroom this season.