At Pitti Uomo 97, designers in Florence played to their strengths with Jil Sander and Brunello Cucinelli delivering fall/winter 2020 presentations as well as a special guest closing the Stefano Pilati show, and a statement appearance from the Prince of Wales.
The opening ceremony of Pitti Uomo in Florence saw the Prince of Wales speak to the attendees through a recorded video dedicated to raise awareness about the benefits of the fiber. “The fact that over 1,000 brands are joining The Campaign for Wool suggests that the message of sustainability and biodegradability and the persuasive case for choosing natural rather than synthetic fibers are finally starting to get through to people. They are asking searching questions about the provenience and content of current fashion and everything inside their homes,” remarked Prince Charles. Adding: “Only wool provides the ultimate assurance of sustainability. I was particularly pleased to hear that over 100 leading British men’s wear houses continue to make Pitti their home each season and several others will be joining their Italian colleagues in the celebration of the sustainability of wool at the British Institute later this week. It is really most encouraging that the Institute and Pitti Immagine are making common chords in this way”. This isn’t the first time Prince Charles has teamed up with Pitti Immagine. He attended the Palazzo Pitti in April 2017 when the Italian and British met to discuss and promote the future of versatility and sustainability.
Read on to find out more about the highlights and the best standout menswear moments that graced Pitti Uomo 97.
The first ever fashion house to have a presentation at the magnificent Palazzo Pitti 1952, Brioni celebrated its 75th anniversary this year. The label welcomed the guests in romantic rooms with white linen and illuminated by candlelight in the Palazzo Gerini framed by gilded cornices with large chandeliers. Members of the world’s most talented Philharmonic orchestras around the world entertained in separate rooms wearing the latest Brioni tailoring with embroidered silks and glittering jacquards.
After they announced their impressive growth last year, the Italian fashion house Brunello Cucinelli surprised all the guests with a luxurious and memorable dinner. Their latest collection titled “Town about Man”presented a composition of sumptuous pieces with cashmere pinstripes and highly soft vicuña overcoats. The collection also offered a sporty range of puffer jackets with houndstooth panels and rubber toed hiking boots, not to mention a cream cord tuxedo jacket.
Another Italian brand made history by turning a big 85 this season. Canali revealed their three big collections inside Florence’s Odeon Cinema — ‘Black’, ‘Exclusive’ and ‘Canali 1934’. The ‘Exclusive’ line offered a premium new suit style featuring wide lapelled jackets and gathered shoulders with high-waisted trousers, while The ‘Black’ range saw a collection more focused on urban style featuring hybrid puffer jackets with backpacks and sleek knitwear.
Powercouple Lucie and Luke Meier presented their first collection as guest designers for Jil Sander at a special event at Pitti Uomo 97. The collection was presented at the majestic space at the historic Santa Maria Novella, amid piles of vibrant orange marigolds. TheMeiers showcased their timeless, materiality and handcraft-focused collection which honored the artful heritage of the city through cashmere coats and capes, shirts with abstract watercolor splashes and soft mohair tabards.
The former designer of Yves Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna, creative director Stefano Pilati has been working on the Random Identities label from Berlin. His latest collection was presented in red light and a dramatic smoky ambiance reflecting on the label’s aesthetic. The mix-gendered collection ranged between eveningwear, sportswear, and streetwear. The highlight however was the closing when Pilati himself took the runway in a warm camel cashmere coat paired with riding boots, surprising the audience and later disappearing into the darkness.