Read the complete review on the Valentino Fall 2024 menswear show, which was presented in Paris, and catch a glimpse of the collection.
In designing a collection for men, Pierpaolo Piccioli believes he has a role to play in dismantling toxic masculinity. “There has to be a reflection on the idea of masculinity. In the last year, in Italy, there has been a lot of violence against women,” he said in a preview. “I think it’s time now to join the fight with women, for real respect and equality. I think it’s time to rethink even the symbols of masculinity—because if you don’t do that right from inside, men will never change.”
Where his last few Valentino menswear collections were aimed at a younger, more casual audience, this one stepped up to reimagine the suit: the heart of the matter; the uniform of patriarchal and corporal norms. “I want to give men a new grace and gentleness,” he said.
His solution came from applying the secret haute couture weapon that’s at the heart of the house of Valentino. “Made-to-measure tailoring is a sort of men-only club. It’s far away from women’s couture. I wanted to meld the two together,” he said.
So, although his collection, chiefly of suits, jackets and coats, appeared to be fit the regular block, the techniques and fabrics—such as chiffon linings and rounded shapes—came from haute couture practices. “The suits are really soft as cardigans,” Piccioli observed. “It’s a long way from the classic president’s double-breasted power suit.”
He broke down the idea even further by showing turtlenecks under shirts and ties, adding double lapels on jackets and coats. The three-piece suit was dissected in a trompe l’oeil manner, so that the waistcoat became a kind of vestigial scarf. The ‘roundedness’ associated with women’s haute couture volumes was applied to the structure of a black single-pocket T-shirt, so the casual assumed a kind of formality (Piccioli said he had his own eye on wearing this one.)
More work went into smartening unstructured pajama suits, upgrading choreography jackets and shifting the grammar of cargo pants by moving their pockets to the front of the trouser. From a distance, Piccioli’s collection, dark-hued and long-coated, fit very much into the look of menswear this season. The substance and the feeling was subtly different though, geared, as Piccioli put it, to see “men as human.”
A glimpse at the Valentino Fall 2024 menswear collection
Originally published in Vogue.com