Sophomore challenges, destination shows and anniversaries define the autumn/winter 2019 men’s shows, which kick off in London this Saturday. Before he sets sail for his tour of reviews, Vogue fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen gives a heads up on the menswear shows to watch this season.
Berluti gets the biggest drumroll at this season’s men’s shows. After June’s big designer rotation – where Virgil Abloh took over from Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, who in turn took over from Kris Van Assche at Dior – Van Assche is unveiling his new vision for Berluti on January 18.
Moschino relocates its men’s show to Rome this season, following several presentations in Los Angeles. The evening spectacular on January 8, which will include the women’s pre-fall 2019 collection, is set to take place at the Cinecittà studios where Federico Fellini filmed some of his most legendary work.
Y/Project headlines this season’s Pitti Immagine events in Florence, following in the footsteps of Craig Green, who guest-starred at the old fashion fair in June. Glenn Martens’ show, which takes place on January 9, will be staged inside the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, which houses some of the most famous frescoes in Florence.
Louis Vuitton gets its sophomore turn in Paris on January 17 under the artistic menswear directorship of contemporary mega phenomenon and Generation Z whisperer Virgil Abloh. His debut show in June, presented on a rainbow runway with a highly diverse cast, was unanimously praised for its unifying sentiments. What’s next? “Michael Jackson,” Abloh revealed to Interview Magazine.
Dior set Tokyo on fire in November with a men’s pre-fall 2019 show that reimagined Kim Jones’s debut show format in June, replacing his massive Kaws floral centrepiece with an equally massive robot sculpture designed by Hajime Sorayama. On January 19, Jones will test if the sky is the limit.
Neil Barrett celebrates his brand’s 20th anniversary on January 15th in Milan. Over the past two decades, the Devon-born designer has become a staple on the Italian show scene, establishing an independently successful menswear empire that reaches around the globe and has expanded into womenswear. His autumn/winter 2019 collection calls for celebration.
Givenchy has embraced the co-ed show format under the royal purveyance of Clare Waight Keller, but January marks a new dawn for the Duchess’s dressmaker. Come the Paris men’s shows, the British designer will stage her first standalone menswear presentation for Givenchy, which could see an expansion of the genderless philosophies Waight Keller introduced in September’s co-ed ready-to-wear show.
Jonathan Anderson is reverting the co-edification of his J.W. Anderson shows. On January 16, he will reintroduce a men’s show in Paris and bring new focus to the menswear roots of his partly LVMH-owned brand. And if that wasn’t enough, on January 19 Anderson will stage his first men’s runway show for LVMH’s Loewe.
Kenzo, Dsquared2 and Paul Smith continue to fly the co-ed flag at the men’s shows. Starting with the Dsquared2 show in Milan on January 13, Kenzo and Paul Smith will follow troop in Paris come January 20, cementing the ongoing evolution of the fashion calendar, and likely playing to the rise of genderless collections, which defined the women’s ready-to-wear shows in September.
This article was originally published on Vogue.co.uk