A water-based fragrance conquers unexplored territories. What makes Dior Sauvage Eau Forte—with Johnny Depp as the face—so unique? Keep reading to discover the intricacies that make up the iconic perfume.
Johnny Depp is the face of Dior’s Sauvage
Famous for its vast stretches of untamed terrain and walls of jagged sandstone, Utah is a destination where nature reigns supreme. Fittingly, these views of the surrounding desert—the hideaway was reflective of the orange-hued vistas served as the backdrop for Dior to unveil its men’s fragrance, Sauvage Eau Forte, “The cascade of a waterfall is a powerful, breathtaking, and inspired by the wonderful wildness of the world—especially water. The launch took place at the luxury Amangiri resort, an isolated haven nestled between the rock formations of a valley carved by rivers millions of years ago. With its distinct concrete structures giving way to a spectacular pool with dramatic views of the surrounding desert, the hideaway was reflective of the natural magic of the fragrance Vogue Arabia was there to celebrate. “The cascade of a waterfall is a powerful, breathtaking, and mesmerizing spectacle. I was keen on the idea of water acting as a link and a crossing point between heaven and earth, in a fragrance embodying this incredible power,” says Francis Kurkdjian, the maison’s master perfumer. The goal of this latest offering was to break boundaries. “The idea was to focus on the fresh side of Sauvage, to define what makes it so unique. And then to focus on that freshness and to create a perfume out of it, something that is long-lasting, strong, and powerful. This is where we have that name, Eau Forte, which is a combination of freshness on one side, with the idea of eau and forte from the other side.”
The Amangiri resort in Utah, where Sauvage Eau Forte was unveiled.
The Sauvage fragrance range has undergone its own metamorphosis over the years. Released in 2015 as the house’s answer to a more rugged cologne, it drew its name from Dior’s 1966 Eau Sauvage – a now vintage citrus aromatic. What remains as a common thread through subsequent releases and variations is a signature spike of lavender, a staple of French perfumery. The new Sauvage Eau Forte isn’t just an extension of this lineage, it’s a revolutionary formula. Instead of relying on alcohol to carry the scent, as is the case with most perfumes, this is water-based, making the maison the first of its kind to use such a high concentration of the stuff in men’s fragrance. The secret behind this innovative approach is Dior’s use of nano-emulsion technology. “Water and oil don’t mix, so the challenge was finding a way to bring them together, to make them speak the same language. So throughout the process of mixing them, we add a third party.” That third party, Kurkdjian explains, is a cocktail of solubilizers to help with dissolving. While the switch to a water-based formula may resonate with clients in the region, where alcohol-free products add a level of universality and inclusivity to the fragrance market, Kurkdjian stresses that Sauvage Eau Forte was not specifically designed for this audience. Rather, the technology brings forth a feeling that was not possible through the use of alcohol, and one he seeks to share with the world.
Francis Kurkdjian, Dior’s master perfumer.
Featuring the signature midnight blue shade of the Sauvage line, the fragrance is housed in a flacon that transitions into clear glass as a reminder of the purity of the water-based formula within. The bottle’s ombré effect mirrors the interplay of light and shadow, of strength and softness, that defines its contents. Inside, the benefits of being alcohol-free are not just about the technology, but the enhancement of the overall sensory experience. Alcohol-based perfumes can often be sharp and evaporate quickly, but the water-based alternative of Sauvage Eau Forte offers an easier, more blended scent that still maintains its intensity. For this, Kurkdjian didn’t go with the typical notes for something fresh. Instead, he imagined a composition that is at once spicy, woody, and musky—a masculine composition in three parts. First, he took blanched lavender, bringing an initial cleanness to the fragrance’s opening and acknowledging the oil that was the backbone of the 1966 original. Next, a zesty heart to add depth. “The very fresh notes are made up with cardamom and nutmeg, and a note which is called elemi that is very similar to bergamot, giving a spicy effect without the florals. It’s part of the same morphology,” explains the perfumer. “Elemi is more spicy. Spicier and clean. Then in the dry down to the envelope, you smell what I call musky woods. When you put all three together, you get the final perfume, because the proportions are exactly the same.”
Like perfumery’s equivalent of a haute couture designer, Kurkdjian also wanted to challenge the conventions of his craft. “It’s part of the game,” he exclaims. “If creation is not challenging, therefore it’s not creation.” He goes on to explain what he sees as the difference between art and artisanship, describing the artisan’s challenge as repeating the same gesture over and over until perfection is reached. “But a master artisan,” he concludes, “is the one who keeps challenging himself to do better. If I would have not experienced any challenges, it would have meant that I was repeating myself somehow.”
Photographs: Wolfe+Von
Originally published in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue of Vogue Man Arabia
